* Herman and Alan's Travelogue

Wandering the Streets

2011-03-24T22:05:00.000-07:00

You encounter some pretty unusual sights when wandering around a foreign city. But they may only be unusual to you.

We came upon this herd of wild animals on the streets of Chiang Mai.

They're not so tuff.

And here's one for our agricultural experts.

What to eat in Chiang Mai

2011-03-24T21:05:00.000-07:00

Chiang Mai strawberries. What strawberries used to taste like in the U.S.

Chiang Mai, like many cities, has food items that are specialties of the area. While there are plenty of restaurants to satisfy the tourist's palate, there are certain local items not to be missed.

One of these dishes is Northern Thai Khao Soi (curry noodle soup). The mild thick curry soup is usually served with chicken, or some other meat, and made with egg noodles. Originally from Burma, it has been adapted and modified by the Thais and has become a staple in Chiang Mai.

It generally contains red curry paste, phom kari (mild Thai yellow curry powder), garlic, coconut milk, ground pork, turmeric, sugar, lime juice, and stock. Accompaniments include chopped shallots, pickled cabbage (phak kaat dong) and lime wedges.

Another must try in Chiang Mai is Thai Northern Sausage (sai oua).

Sausages are quite popular in Thailand but Sai Oua is unique to Northern Thailand. It's a drier sausage made with pork, garlic, coriander, lime juice, lemon grass, galangal powder, shallot, shrimp paste, and chili peppers.

I would never recommend making sausages on your own, unless you're like our friend Pic back home who does it routinely. And he does a killer Sai Oua.

Sai Oua is readily available from street vendors all over Chiang Mai.

Street food is available all over Chiang Mai as it is throughout Thailand.

It's all safe to eat and always a great bargain. Above is a street vendor dishing up Pad Thai for a mere 20 baht (65 cents) per serving.

Steamed bread made with Palm Hearts.

Grilled Rice Cakes.

A Soup stall.

Grilled Squid.

So when in Thailand, and especially in Chiang Mai, try the street food.

What is Happening to KL?

2011-03-24T08:35:00.000-07:00

The Petronas Towers put Kuala Lumpur on the 21st century map. The twin towers were the tallest buildings in the world between 1998 and 2004 when it was surpassed by Taipei 101. They remain the tallest twin buildings in the world today.

Building in many of the major cities of Asia has become a boom and in KL the massiveness of the Petronas Towers is slowly being lessened by buildings sprouting up all around them.

The Satay Truck.

Malls are popping up more and more around the central business areas, and they are packed with shoppers.

Some complain that KL is slowly but surely going down the same path as Singapore with glitzy malls. Hopefully this will not be the case. Yes, there are malls in KL but nowhere near what Singapore's Orchard Road has become.

KL is becoming a much more modern city. It's people are multi-ethnic, diverse, and progressive.

Malaysia is a country where Muslims are a majority. Not specifically in KL where non-muslim ethnic Chinese are the majority. But everyone gets along together here.

Bukit Bintang is a little like Times Square at night.

Chinatown KL has turned into what many Chinatowns have evolved into; street markets catering to tourists. Petaling Street is now a vast array of t-shirt and knock-off vendors but behind the scenes and in the cracks are still signs of Old Chinatown. You just have to look a little harder.

We'll miss Japan

2011-03-24T07:35:00.000-07:00

Our winter trips to warmer climates in Southeast Asia and Australia usually have us heading home in April, and occasionally we choose to spend a few weeks in Japan before returning home. This was our plan for the winter trip this year until the devastation caused by the massive earthquake just off the northern Japanese coast changed our plans.

We'll miss being in Japan this spring. The cherry blossoms will still be in bloom and the people of Japan will manage to get on with their lives.

We wish them all the best.

On the Equator in Africa

2011-03-24T00:33:00.000-07:00

If you've been on Safari in Kenya, you probably had your picture taken here at Nanyuki.

It's a popular pit stop between camps, complete with a shop where you can pick up all the souvenirs you need.

Herman's Indiana Jones moment (less the hat).

On the way to the Blixen compound in Nairobi we stopped to feed the giraffes at the Nairobi Giraffe Center. We were told not to tease them with the Purina Giraffe Chow we were given to feed them with. Just place some pellets in the palm of your hand and reach out to them. They will gently lap them off your palm leaving all kinds of slime for you to wipe off. But Alan had to tease them, holding pellets with a closed fist. He was swiftly met with a Giraffe head-butt, knocking him to the ground.

We began our twenty day, seven camp safari in East Africa in Nairobi. The city is somewhat of a chaotic mess but much of it is only on the surface. After a night in a posh hotel in the middle of the city we made our way to our first safari destination.

Masai are often hired by the camps to guard against roving animals. Never mind that humans are the ones encroaching on their graze lands.

Safaris in East and South Africa are pretty well organized. The infrastructure for safaris has been laid down and fine tuned through the years. A well know saying is "no problem". If there is a glitch, and there usually is, things will be remedied swiftly.

Your car is not here. No Problem. I'll call and they will send another car.

The airport runway is full of wild animals. No Problem. We'll buzz the runway a couple of times with our plane and they will scatter off.

A tented accommodation in the "jungles of Africa". Sounds rough and primitive but far from it. This tent had regular beds, running water, a walk thru shower, and a cast iron bath tub on the attached deck.

We were encouraged to leave the flaps on the tent open during the night but we said no thanks. Our neighbors did. No rouge elephants. Only a few stray bats came flying in.

Our Safaris in East Africa capped off an eight month trip for us covering forty destinations in thirty countries. It remains the greatest trip of our lives.

East Africa Safari

2011-03-23T22:16:00.000-07:00

A lonely male elephant.

The male elephant, like many other animals of his sex, are destined to being solitary roamers in their old age. Having outlived his usefulness as a breeder and protector, he lives out his life alone.

Elephants that live out their years free from predators (mainly humans) usually die of starvation. Their teeth eventually wear down to the point where they can no longer chew their food properly.

Female Elephants and their young travel around in herds with the matriarch in charge.

One of roughly 60 elephants, mostly solitary males, left roaming the Ngorongoro Crater.

A young leopard practicing his/her climbing. After capturing prey, leopards usually drag them up trees where they are relatively free to consume their rewards free from other animals looking for an easy meal.

Von der Decken's Hornbill. This one is a male of the species and one very good thief.

A female cheetah on the lookout for prey in the early morning hours.

Cape Buffalos, one of "the big five", along with the African Elephant, Rhino, Leopard, and Lion.

Reticulated Giraffe, the tallest animal on the planet. It can reach a height of 19 feet and weigh up to 2600 pounds. Even though the giraffe's neck can be as long as eight feet, it still only has seven bones, the same number of bones in the human neck.

Hippos are the third largest land mammals, after the Elephant and Rhino, and kill more humans than any other of the wild animals in Africa. Although some believe it's a toss-up between the Rhino and Hippo for second largest.

The word Hippopotamus means "water horse" and if you've ever "smelled" them at the zoo, that's precisely how they smell in the wild. They love to wallow in groups of 15 or more in muddy pools during the day and the smell certainly gets ripe after a while.

The African Lion, although easily spotted in the game parks and reserves of Africa are an endangered species. Some estimates put the current wild population at less than 20,000.

Male Lion with a wildebeest kill.

Eland, the largest of the antelopes.

Above are Burchell's Zebra or common plains zebras of Africa. They are more closely related to the horse than the Grevy's Zebras, (pictured below) who are more closely related to the wild ass.

The endangered Grevy's Zebras remain only in the northern sections of Kenya and south eastern Ethiopia today. They are larger and longer legs than the Burchell's Zebra, a stripe-free belly and round ears.

A third species of Zebra, Equus Zebras (also know as the mountain Zebra), resides in the southern and southwestern portions of Africa.

Zebras usually precede the Wildebeests during the great migration in the Serengeti and Masai Mara. They would trim the tall grasses and the Wildebeests would follow, digging into the short grasses.

Ngorongoro Crater Lodge

2011-03-23T19:58:00.000-07:00

It's been a steady stream of scattered thunderstorms here in what some people call the "Paradise of Phuket" so I thought I'd do a little catching up on updating.

We often get questions inquiring about our most enjoyable destinations, and even favorite properties we've had the pleasure of visiting over the years and one that always comes to mind is the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge in Tanzania.

The experience of Safaris is usually exhilarating, and often goes beyond what words can merely describe. We spent almost three weeks on safari in Eastern Africa a number of years ago and the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge certainly remains a highlight.

The Ngorongo Crater Lodge sits on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, the largest intact caldera in the world. An estimated 25,000 large mammals inhabit the nearly three million year old crater, including lions, elephants, leopards, wildebeests, and the rare endangered black rhino.

The property is divided into three separated camps with ten intimate stilted safari suites each. The mud and thatch Maasai inspired suites are all equipped with fireplaces, grand chandeliers, antiques, enormous walk through showers, and three inch thick cast iron bathtubs. Each hut has an attached deck with magnificent views of the crater.

Alan relaxing in the bath after a day of safari.

Personal butlers would have baths drawn on request after safaris, and room warming fires would be lit prior to our returns.

The common areas in the neighboring structure consists of a large sitting room and a separate attached dining room. The personalized meals were all incredible. Dinners were taken at a leisurely pace as nightcaps and sweets were set up in the rooms.

We were sad to leave after our four night stay at the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge. The property and environment are magical and the service was incredible.

Our host at the Lodge was a double for Denzel Washington and he, along with the butler assigned to us, discreetly tended to all our needs.

Laundry was laid out before we left for safaris and cleaned on our return, and all done without any additional cost. Nowhere else, not even all-inclusive resorts where we paid in excess of $1,300 a night was our laundry done without additional charge.

Alan raved about the coffee at the Lodge and on our departure, "Denzel" left us with a small package of roasted beans. Now that's service.

We took our safaris into the crater each day searching for various pods or singular animals. The crater floor is a unique environment covering 100 square miles and host to a variety of animals.

Within the crater are huge lerai forests, sacred to the Maasai, and a number of lakes. Lake Natron on the southwestern floor of the crater is a popular breeding area for the lesser flamingo.

The Maasai have occupied the Crater area since the early 1800s and today are seen daily herding their cattle around.

We visited this Maasai village on the Crater one morning before heading into the Crater. It's all very well organized of course and we were asked to pay the elder of the tribe a small token for the visit to help the tribe members. We crawled into one of the mud huts where he laid in the darkness smoking his long pipe. He welcomed us, through an interpreter, and we gave him twenty bucks.

Maasai mud huts.

We're enjoying the beaches, but...

2011-03-08T00:19:00.001-08:00

We're back on Nai Harn Beach on the southern tip of the island of Phuket.

We've always enjoyed our visits here (eight in the last dozen years) and have booked six solid weeks of sand, sun, and pool this year.

As much as we enjoying going to the beach every day, we are missing Chiang Mai a bit.

As Thailand's premier beach destination, the island has plenty to offer the beach going throngs.

Unfortunately, tourism does have it's ugly side. Most of Patong Beach, the main tourist beach on the island, is not fit for swimming. Karon, Kata, and Kata Noi to the south of Patong are usually better options with Nai Harn, even further south being the best choice.

Long tail boats for hire. It's a great way to cruise around, even to some of the closer outer islands, but be ready to pay.

The Tsunami did extensive damage to many of the beaches on the western side of the island but just about all was back to normal a year later.

Being a beach destination, there is little in the way of local Thai culture. Just about everything for tourist here is at least double what you would pay in Bangkok or Chiang Mai.

Capping it in Thailand

2011-03-07T20:34:00.000-08:00

OK, we did buy Mom some caps. Don't know if they're knitted or crocheted because we frankly do not know the fine details of playing with needles and yarn.

We'll see if she's up to the challenge of whipping some up.

Now who would actually wear this out in public? I'm sure Alan's nieces will.

Chingay Parade 2011

2011-02-15T16:45:00.000-08:00

"Get ready to Party" A common scream from the announcers as the annual Chingay parade began.

This year marked the largest two days of parades celebrating Chingay since it began on the streets of Singapore in 1973.

There were over 8,000 participants in this year's parade, and that's just the marchers.

There were thousands who paid 25 to 45 Singaporean Dollars each for a seat in the main stands where the parade began. Thousands more lined the parade route and everyone was encouraged to participate in the festive mood. Frenzied shouting and cheering is part of the celebration.

Dancing groups made up the majority of the parade.

The evolution of Chingay is synonymous with the growth of Singapore with it's social and ethnic diversity. The parade itself began in 1972 mainly as a celebration of the Chinese Lunar New Year and was made up almost entirely of Chinese entrants.

Chingay participation expanded to include groups from around the world, and over the years there have been entrants from Europe, Tahiti, Brail, Japan, Indonesia, Korea, Ghana, and many more.

Chingay Parade 2011

2011-02-15T16:22:00.000-08:00

Japanese entrants.

Southern Chinese Lions.

Entrants from Singapore's Little India.

Chingay is part Chinese New Year celebrations, part Samba or Mardi Gras, and part street party. Chingay has grown to be the largest such celebration in all of Southeast Asia.

The word Chingay is from the Hokkien dialect of Mandarin meaning "the art of masquerade".

Chingay Parade 2011

2011-02-15T06:47:00.000-08:00

The best time to visit Singapore is undoubtedly during Chingay.

Singapore is a multi-ethnic island city with a reputation of being the most sterile city in the world. It is very clean and things do seem to run like clockwork, and while it is illegal to litter and spit, its not, as rumored, illegal to fart.

Indians, Malays, Indonesians, Chinese, Koreans, Japanese, and just plan Singaporeans.

Indonesian Dancers.

Chingay Parade 2011

2011-02-15T06:27:00.000-08:00

Bring It On!

High energy Malaysian dancers.

The largest group in the parade was a throng of youths handling the massive red silk tarp that spanned the parade route.

The only entry from the Americas - Mexico.

Not sure how many of these participants are actually from Mexico, or even been to Mexico.

But I suppose it really doesn't matter.

There were two groups from Europe. One from Germany and this group overly active Danes.

A women's group made up entirely of women over the age of 55. One was in her early eighties.

Star Wars characters led by Darth Vader.

Belly Dancers

Chingay Parade 2011

2011-02-15T05:57:00.000-08:00

The African groups. Not from Africa but Singaporeans dressed in festive African animal costumes.

Giraffes, dancing Zebras, and...

...Yes. Dancing trees.

This year's Chingay parade, both Saturday and Sunday, was the most organized parade we've ever attended. Have you ever attended a parade with huge gaps in the the "action"? Sections where nothing was going on and usually right in front of you.

Well, the Chingay parade is run and paced by music. The parade route is lined with loudspeakers piping out music. There is a motif for marching and a separate motif for performing. Marching groups perform their routines when the performance music is blaring and the entire parade moves on when the marching music begins.

What's a parade without the Music Man.

Firecracker Dragons.

Live firecrackers have been banned for most celebrations in Singapore since 1972 when two people were killed as a result of a massive firecracker explosion during the Lunar New Year celebration, but this is Chingay and if there are going to be fireworks, there may as well be firecrackers.

Most ceremonies in Singapore which would normally use live firecrackers now use simulated firecrackers. They pose little of the potential dangers of live firecrackers but still have a somewhat muted sound of firecrackers. The ban on firecrackers, although necessary, disappointed many people who felt it dampened the lively spirt of the celebrations.

Fireworks capped the end of the parades.

and... any parade associated with Chinese New Year will end with a dragon. Two 88 metre long dragons in the sky made them the longest floating dragons ever in Singapore.

Urban Malaysians

2011-02-08T16:00:00.000-08:00

Malaysians today are a highly sophisticated population with a wide cultural mix.

Malaysia's population is estimated to be around 28 million with roughly 65% being Malay and Bumiputras. Chinese make up 26% of the population and Indians 7%.

By constitutional definition, Malays are Muslims who practice Malay customs and culture.

Islam is the official religion of Malaysia and is practiced by approximately 60% of the population. The Malaysian constitution guarantees religious freedom and 19% of the population consider themselves Buddhists, 9% Christians, 6% Hindus, and 2.6% other Chinese religions (Confucianism, Taoism).

The cultural diversity is most evident in the urban areas where roughly 70% of the population resides, and especially here in Kuala Lumpur.

Eating Chinese in Kuala Lumpur

2011-02-08T07:16:00.001-08:00

Jalan Alor in the vibrant Bukit Bintnag neighborhood.

Food stall in Chinatown (above) and Fruit stand on Petaling St. (below)

We've been eating almost non-stop since arriving here in Kuala Lumpur. I don't want to sound like a Cantonese foodie snob but we do love to eat Chinese food and Cantonese in particular.

The range and choices are incredible here and its all very good.

Sure there's Tony Roma's, Pizza Hut, Krispy Creme, and KFC here but we don't eat that stuff back home so why would we do so here.

The Malaysian and Chinese options are so plentiful you have to try as much as you can while visiting. There's everything from Herbal Chicken clay pots, to Portuguese grilled fish, to durian custard tarts, to bamboo charcoal bread. There's even something called snowflake soup.

Jook, or rice porridge for breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner. I'm having raw fish, Alan's having bitter melon and pork. Dim Sum accompaniment.

If you're Cantonese, like I am, you probably love tofu fah. Its a soft tofu custard usually served warm with syrup. The best place for it is this little stand on Petaling Street in Chinatown. The price is twice as much and half as good anywhere else.

Fish is very popular in Malaysia and its all very good. This is Stingray cooked with Malaysian okra in a yummy sauce.

This particular beef noodle soup has been around for over 75 years in KL. It's now located in the basement food mall of Lot 10 in Bukit Bintang. The soup with beef balls, fresh beef and trip go into the bowl of noodles with the dark heavy bean sauce. It's incredible to say the least and a must try when in KL. This particular set meal which includes a veg and tea is $2.50.

Hokkien noodles. Very popular and found everywhere.

Nam Heong is sworn to have the best Hainanese Chicken Rice in Kuala Lumpur. Located one street over from the tourist market Petaling Street in Chinatown, its a must stop for lovers of simple Cantonese food.

Alan posing outside Syarikat Makanan Salai Kiew Brothers.

Tofu, lamb curry with rice and seaweed soup. About $2.50.

Malaysia seems to be a popular place for eating durian. I'm not sure if its the higher quality available here, as its claimed to be, or just the sheer number of durian eating people here in Kuala Lumpur.

In any case, durian stands are strategically located throughout the city, mostly where people congregate and eat outdoors. Your nose will lead you to a nearby stand.

Its Chinese New Year so everyone's getting into the spirit, so why not Pizza Hut.

A pizza in the shape of a Chinese coin. What good luck.

More Lion Dancing

2011-02-07T04:49:00.001-08:00

The Chinese New Year celebration usually goes on for two weeks and in many countries it culminates in a huge dragon infested parade. It's no different here in Kuala Lumpur.

Part of the main celebrations surrounding the New Lunar Year are Lion Dances.

There are essentially two types of Lion Dances.

Northern Style, where Lions typically dance using the full body of the lion with jumping and rolling on the floor maneuvers, and Southern Style, where there is more concentration on specific movements of the head and body to show its behavior.

Southern Style is what we see most in Western countries and those associated with Cantonese people. All the pictures here are of Southern Style Lions.

The Origin of the Lion Dance differs depending on what you read and who you listen to.

Many believe it originated with a beast that appeared on New Years to attack and destroy the crops of farmers in the villages. The creature was named "Nien", meaning "year" in Chinese. Gongs and weapons were used to scare it off but it reappeared the following year. Villagers then created an imitation beast with bamboo and colorful paper and used the accompaniment of gongs, drums, and cymbals, to scare it off.

Today, lion dancing is performed on many auspicious occasions such as the dedication of a new building office or store as its believed to bring good fortune and wealth. Its always used during the Chinese Lunar New Year to beckon in a prosperous New Year.

The Southern Lion today is known to be a playful animal with an exaggerated head, huge eyes, and decorated with colorful sequins and lamb or rabbit fur.

Its movements are deliberate and accompanied by specific beats from the drum, gong, and cymbal. Different stances are performed to mimic sleep, waking, drunkenness, happiness, fright, merriment, anger, and suspicion.

Lion Dancing has evolved significantly over the years. Nowhere has is been perfected more in recent years than in Malaysia. There are huge international competitions held yearly in Malaysia and many of the top honors go to the Malaysians. And its not just home street advantage. The huge Chinese population in Malaysia, and particularly in Kuala Lumpur, has nurtured and developed the art of lion dancing beyond the typical.

Lion dance troupes are usually associated with martial arts groups, predominately Kung-Fu. In the 1950s and 60s it developed into a gangster-like cult with many of the Kung-Fu studios fighting with with each other. Knives were carried by the lion dancers and street fights materialized when different troupes performed too close to one another. Some acrobatic steps were even developed to kick and attack other lion dancers. Things got so bad in Hong Kong that the authorities had to ban Lion Dancing for a while. Today its highly regulated in Hong Kong and troupes must attain permits to perform.

Give and receive.

Lucky red envelopes are given to lions (through the mouth to the dancer) and in return gifts, such as oranges or a lucky coin, may be given by the lion.

Here are a mess of short lion dancing videos.

Most were taken on the same day at various locations throughout the city of KL.

Sorry about the quality of some of them but for some reason Goog will only allow me to post them at this lower resolution.

Lion Pole Dancing .

A very popular routine here in KL.

The Pavilion Shopping Complex is undoubtedly the flashiest Mall in this city where malls seem to be doubling every every five years.

Lion dancing performances have been happening daily for the last week.

Its easy to see why the Malaysian Lion dancers consistently win competitions.

Lion dancers at one of the Syarikat Makanan Salai Kiew Brothers outlets.

SMSKB is reputed to be the best smoked, dried meat in Kuala Lumpur.

Sometimes referred to as barbequed meat, its a little like jerky only thicker and more tender.

Chicken and Pork are the most popular and their main outlet in Chinatown will usually have long lines at opening time when freshly grill-dried meats are available.

The Lion Dancing at this particular outlet of SMSKB at the Pavilion lasted almost an hour.

Plenty long for a whole mess of good fortune for the New Year.

Gung Hay Fat Choy KL

2011-02-03T17:25:00.000-08:00

Gung Hay Fat Choy from Kuala Lumpur.

It's Chinese New Year and it's certainly celebrated here in Kuala Lumpur where roughly 43% of the 1.8 million people are Chinese.

The Chinese were amongst the earliest immigrants to settle in KL but many came originally to work lower end jobs. Most originated from Guangdong Province and speak Cantonese but Chinese immigrants also migrated from Fujian and Hokkien.

Today, many of the Chinese in KL are English-educated and speak primarily English with some Chinese dialects. A majority of them are involved with the corporate and commercial business sector of Malaysia.

Kuan Ti Temple is one of the two main Chinese Temples in Chinatown.

A Taoist Temple also known as Guan Ti or Kwong Siew Temple, it's dedicated to Kuan Ti, the God of Righteousness.

The temple houses a long knife (Guan Dao) brought from China more than 100 years ago.

Legend has it that anyone who touches the knife will receive its blessings, whatever that means.

Lion pole dancing.

Welcome Year of the Rabbit.

You're a rabbit if you were born on or after the Chinese Lunar New Year in 1915, 1927, 1939, 1951, 1963, 1975, 1987, 1999, or 2011.

Rabbits are generally gentle, calm, loving, and ambitious. They're good listeners, kind, and sweet by nature so they're often sought out as good trusted friends. They also have a good eye for art, design, and fashion (who doesn't know a rabbit thats not a flashy dresser?).

Rabbits are most compatible with Dogs, Sheep, and Pigs (not in this order).

Chiang Mai massage

2011-01-18T18:52:00.000-08:00

There are probably more places you can get a massage, per square kilometer, in Chiang Mai than anywhere else on the planet. Where throngs congregate, there are bound to be massage chairs set up. No where is this more evident than on the weekends, around the walking markets. And why not? After a couple of hours trudging along narrow congested paths searching desperately for that special item for Aunt Tillie, what would come in handy more than a foot massage?

That's 60 baht for half an hour (about $2.00).

We were introduced to "fish massage" roughly eighteen months ago in some backstreet marketplace in Siem Reap. More an "attraction" than a massage, it's exactly what travelers seek. "... and here I am at the fish massage". "The What?"

You cleanse your feet, soak them in the tank, and while you're surfing away on the internet, small fish pick away at your feet. Doesn't it just send chills up your spine?

How much you say? Three one hundred, I was told. I took that to be 300 baht ($11.00) for a full hour of fish picking fun.

Thai massage, although relatively new to modern day spa menus, evolved over 2500 years ago. First developed by Buddhist monks in Thailand as a healing modality, it's rapidly become a favorite therapeutic and relaxing pastime for tourists and locals alike.

Traditional Thai massage is done on a mat or futon laying on the floor. It involves passive stretching and gentle pressure along the body's energy lines to increase flexibility, as well as relieving joint and muscle tension.

The usual "foot massage" doesn't involve any real pain, even though a rounded wooden peg may be jammed into that most sensitive part of your foot. Oil is often involved and the long slow gentle use of pressure may go up as far as your knee.

There are of course plenty of high end spas offering a full menu of massage delights.

After a two hour, four hands, herbal compress, oil massage, you will indeed be a new person.

Yes, sign me up indeed.

Massage weapons.

The Thai Herbal Compress (Luk Pra Kob) contains up to twenty traditional Thai herbs including Camphor, Kaffir lime, Lemon Grass, Galanga, Tamarind leaves, Prai Ginger Zingiber, Cassumunar, Cinnamon, Turmeric oil, and Aromatic Salisb.

Chiangmai - what to buy?, what to buy?

2011-01-13T20:27:00.001-08:00

Chiangmai, like most other places where tourist congregate, has night bazaars where you can indeed pickup some rather bizarre items.

Coconut animals lights. Why not.

Dog outfits, more for locals but really, who can resist? Once the temperatures get way down into the low 80s, out come the jackets. You wouldn't want your dog to freeze.

Hilltribe merchandise has become very popular with tourists, although I've never actually seen anyone actually making a purchase. We first noticed the pointy hats a couple of years ago and now they're everywhere. OK, on the head of tourists.

The night bazaar in Chiangmai is mostly for tourist. There are an abundance of tourist type items such as t-shirts, luggage, and soap carved into flowers. You don't find many locals shopping here. They can usually get the same items, if they wanted them, somewhere else cheaper. Try down around the Wararoot Market.

Chiangmai also has street markets on the weekends.

Wualai Rd, also known as Silversmith's road, on Saturdays, and Ratchadamnoen Rd., which cuts down the center of the walled city on Sundays. These have become known as the "walking street" markets, although the term crawling street might be more appropriate. The crowds during the high season are unmaneuverable and you just have to inch your way along with everyone else. Not a place for someone who is claustrophobic. But none the less, if you enjoy shopping or looking for "nick-nacks", or some little strange item to take home to friends or family, you'll certainly enjoy being out and about soaking in the people and scenery.

String lights. Yes, a shameless way to get your attention.

The weekend walking streets do have a higher percentage of locals shopping along with all the tourists, and the selection of items offered do reflect it.

OK, who doesn't need pillowcases?

So you may as well shop and buy while you're traveling to Chiangmai. Otherwise you'll regret not having bought that item you bargained so desperately for and ended up not purchasing.

Chiangmai lights

2011-01-04T18:58:00.000-08:00

Festival of lights at Wat Pan Tao in Chiangmai.

A ceremonial event to beckon in good wishes for the New Year.

Out and about in Chiangmai

2011-01-03T19:57:00.000-08:00

New Years is coming so offerings are being made at temples all over town.

It's not actually snowing in Chiangmai, but hey, what's the harm in getting into the holiday mood. This is actually a promo a local mobile phone company. Mobile phones are very popular in Thailand and practically everyone has one.

A parade for money offerings. Just another way for people to make their New Year's offerings without actually having to go to the temple.

What's the big deal? It's only a guy dressed up as a girl. So what.

Drag shows are very popular in Thailand, even with the locals.

And quite a beautiful girl at that.

A mobile monk. Loudspeakers blaring down the streets make the announcement that the mobile monk is coming. Twenty baht (75 cents) is all that's asked to receive a blessing.

Probably the closest thing to a holiday tree in Chiangmai.

Temple offerings for the New Year.

Happy New Year Chiangmai

2011-01-01T22:12:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year from Chiangmai. Hope you all have a fantastic 2011.

We, along with everyone else, send our lanterns up into the skies with the hope that the new year will be filled with happiness and good luck.

Music on the streets

2010-12-31T21:07:00.000-08:00

Thais love to sing and they're encouraged to do so at an early age. They become very good at it very quickly and with the kitchy Thai songs, it's all so entertaining.

Blind musicians on the street. Every weekend there is the "walking street" where you can buy just about any nick-nack under the sun. Very popular with locals and tourists alike are the blind musicians with their mixture of Thai songs and all the Western favorites.

Chiangmai toy dogs

2010-12-29T02:27:00.000-08:00

Wait a minute. Is that a dog?

Maybe it's me, or maybe I'm just not in with the pocket pup circles back home but I've been oblivious to miniature canines.

Thais love their dogs, and nowhere is it more evident than in Chiangmai.

Toy dogs are all the rage and you'll see them everywhere.

But when does a toy dog cease being a toy? You'll see people constantly playing with them; tossing them around, stuffing them in bags for transport, and of course dressing them up like a Barbie doll. But it's all part of owning a dog, isn't it?

For the most part, toy dogs are very well behaved here, never straying far from the hand that feeds them. Leashes are a rarity and most of them are street smart.

Unfortunately, there are a large number of street dogs in Chiangmai. They tend to be the "larger dogs", which we back home would consider a mid-sized dog. Many appear to be homeless although you do see people leaving food and water on the streets for them at night.

Many have battle wounds and some are in pretty bad shape but none are starving.

Temples are great refuges for stray dogs. Although they may not be considered stray. The monks do feed them and each temple has their usual assortment of dogs. They come and go as they please and nobody seems to care much if one goes missing.

A well pampered poodle. Not a rare sight in Chiangmai.

Dog shrine at a temple.

Crochet caps

2010-12-27T20:43:00.000-08:00

One Panda, Two Panda, Three Panda, Four....

OK, this post is really for Alan's mom, who we're sure is crocheting up a storm back home, catching up with the holiday gifts.

The crochet or knit cap market has really taken off here in Chiangmai the last few years.

Seems some people are willing to put just about anything on their heads, and not just the tourists.

Strawberry hat. My favorite.

These go for about two to six dollars apiece, depending on your bargaining skills.

Mine aren't that good, plus I'm not willing to walk away over a mere twenty cents.

Always bargain in good faith (with a pretty good intention of making a purchase) but never argue with a seller. They generally have a pretty good idea what the lowest price is in any marketplace.

Then there are always swan doilies. You'll never know when you need them.

Merry Christmas Chiangmai

2010-12-25T20:03:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas from Chiangmai.

Holiday travelers are pouring into Chiangmai (well on the beaten track) and although Thais do not necessarily celebrate Christmas, there are decorations, Christmas trees, and Santa hats everywhere.

We spent Christmas dinner with some friends of ours from Sweden, who apparently travel to Chiangmai as frequently as we do. Yes, Steaks and French Fries, but not real "French Fries".

(photo courtesy of Bellagio, Las Vegas)

What's Christmas without carols.

Yes indeed. Although Thailand is predominately a Buddhist country, there are, especially here in Chiangmai, a number of private Christian schools.

Back in Thailand

2010-12-16T19:07:00.000-08:00

Escaping the beginnings of winter back home we arrived back in Bangkok.

For some reason, most of the flights from the California arrive close to midnight, after twenty or so hours of flight time and layovers.

We changed planes in Seoul, Korea on the flight over, where the plane was filled with predominately middle aged men on a golfing junket to Thailand. There must have been 100 golf bags at luggage collection in Bangkok.

Apparently, if you would like to "load firearms" on board an aircraft, you have to contact airline staff at check-in. Not sure what would happen to you next.

Is it Easter? Or is it Christmas?

Gone are any remnants of the violent protests earlier in the year. After years and years of almost daily protests, Bangkok seems pretty sedate. The shopping centers, even the trashed and burned Central World, were back to normal and buzzing with shoppers.

We celebrated the King's Birthday along with everyone else.

The King made a rare appearance on his 82nd birthday and everyone was pleased, not to mention glued to their televisions. Parades, marching, fireworks, there was plenty to be thankful for.

So when in Bangkok, I guess you go shopping.

We did along with everyone else.

We ended up at MBK shopping for a mobile phone. The Thais love their mobiles phones, I guess just like back home and you're nobody if you don't have one.

Luckily, they're quite inexpensive in Thailand. We paid around $25 for a nice basic phone and another couple of bucks for a Sim card. Then all you do is buy time.

So this is Thailand, where this billboard is not actually "gay". It's just Thai.

After a few days in Bangkok, we headed for the hills.

Chiang Mai is probably one of our favorite places to hang out in Thailand. The Thai and western culture are both very evident here and inseparable. Most of the city is accessible on foot or a simple songtew (taxi/truck). Yes there are tuk-tuks too.

Paiute Snow Mountain Pow Wow

2010-06-10T22:09:00.001-07:00

A Pow Wow is a ceremony where Native Americans gather together to join in dancing, singing, visiting, and reviving old friendships and making new ones. It's also a time to renew the old ways, preserving the rich heritage of Native Americans.

The Las Vegas Paiute Tribe put on the 21st annual Pow Wow over Memorial Day weekend and we were lucky enough to have a chance to attend. It was indeed a fantastic experience.

The Las Vegas Paiute reservation consists of 3,800 acres located twenty miles northwest of Central Las Vegas.

Dancing is a big part of any Pow Wow.

Many of today's dances are social and may have had different meanings in the past.

Dance styles and content has changed through the years but their meaning and inportance has not. The outfits worn today have also evolved over time.

Dance categories range from Tiny Tots, to Juniors, to Teens, to Adults, and Golden Age.

There are separate divisions for men and women and a vast number of categories including Fancy Shawl, Jingle, Grass, Traditional, Fancy Bustle, and even a Chicken Dance.

decorative beadwork

Yes there was a wooden Native American statue.

*What's a Pow Wow?

*Pow Wow Etiquette

*Wiki

more - Paiute Snow Mountain Pow Wow

2010-06-10T21:34:00.000-07:00

Pow Wows begin with a Grand Entry with a color guard leading the way into the arena. All participants of the Pow Wow then follow into the arena,

The United States Flag is always present despite the horrible treatment Native Americans have received from this country. The U.S. flag has multiple meanings. It is used to remember all the Native Americans who fought against this country as well as being a symbol of the country all Native Americans belong to now. It also reminds people of all the Native Americans who have fought for this country.

Elders entering arena.

Dressed for Fancy Dancing.

Don't miss it if you get a chance to attend a Pow Wow. Check the Calendar for one near you.

Eating Las Vegas

2010-06-10T10:54:00.000-07:00

Vegas is still there, even though Seigfried and Roy are no longer performing.
There is the new City Center and everything seems a little more crowded on the strip but not much else has changed.
People still stagger through the streets with yard long cocktails occasionally tripping over themselves, Elvis is still spotted on every other street corner, and the streets are still littered with "rent-a-babe" cards.
But people come to Vegas not just to leave their money at the casinos. they also need to eat.

Mon Ami Gabi at Paris. Still the best semi-upscale eatery on the strip.
Great food, decent wine list, unbeatable location, long lines, and all at fairly reasonable prices.

Mmmmmm. Chocolate.

The new City Center, smack in the middle of The Strip, had it's grand opening late last year.

The massive complex took a big hit with the downturn in the economy so you'll see plenty areas which are still unoccupied. But if you have a spare million, you can still get a high-rise studio condo here.

Fashion Show Mall on the strip. Kinda interesting architecture outside. Typical fashion mall inside. It's right across the street from the no so interesting Wynn.

Smack in the middle of the strip with the old Ballys Casino being overshadowed by the new City Center. Caesars, Paris, MGM, Bellagio, and Planet Hollywood are all a stones throw away.

If you're a buffet hound, and all the casinos have at least one, the Bellagio's is pretty good with plenty of variety, although the food seems a bit fresher at the Wynn's buffet.

Italian. Almost a universal theme in Las Vegas.

Then there's a fantastic Chinese (Hunan) restaurant in Chinatown called Dongting Spring.

Chinatown, like almost everything else in Las Vegas, is located in a strip mall. It's about two and a half blocks long located on Spring Mountain and Valley View, just a few blocks north of the Rio.

Here you'll get anything from Chinese to Thai to Korean food, and even Hawaiian.

Steamed pumpkin with dried dates in a honey sauce.

A specialty of the house, spicy smoked ham with fresh bamboo shoots.

Lamb in chili sauce. If you ask for medium spicy, it'll be very spicy. This is after all a Hunan restaurant.

Orange Chicken unlike any you've had before.

Don't go to DongTing Spring if you're expecting the best sweet and sour pork you've ever had.

You'll be sorely disappointed.

However, if your tastes in Chinese food go beyond the typical "Chinese Rack Food Restaurants" you'll find some interesting things to sample on the menu here.

The menu is predominately Hunan so things tend to be different from your typical "Mandarin style" restaurant.

It's true, the staff doesn't speak much English, but the menu does and you'll find some familiar dishes cooked in a not so familiar style.

Many of the spicy dishes are cooked in a very similar style. Try a variety of dishes, meat/seafood/vegetables, cooked in different ways. Otherwise you'll get very similar tasting dishes only with different ingredients.

DongTing Spring (Google Maps)

Hong Kong, then Home

2010-03-11T17:29:00.000-08:00

Hong Kong is a shopping paradise, even if you don't have sacks and sacks of cash laying around.
Bargains on electronics are a thing of the past in the modern age of Internet shopping but if you want nick-knacks, jade, or souvenirs for your aunt Bob, you'll find plenty of it in Hong Kong.
Sure there are all the glitzy fashion stores as well as a Rolex store on almost every corner but leave plenty of time for eating.

Hong Kong is one of the great eating cities in all of Asia. You'll find any kind of food to satisfy your tastes along with the best Chinese food you ever had. Much of it served round the clock.

The best dumplings you ever had.
This could be considered a fast food restaurant like so many other places serving up a quick lunch or snack. But the dumplings (boiled or pan fried) are out of this world.
The menu lists several options involving your choice of dumplings and soup, or you can order large heartier bowls of noodle soup.

Don't know what the name of the restaurant is but it's located on Jordan Road, just a few blocks west of Nathan Lane.

Another one of our favorites is a small Vietnamese restaurant called Herbs Vietnamese Restaurant. The Pho is good but try the other dishes here instead. They're all great.

Pictured above is shredded chicken with garlic chili sauce, stewed ox tail and fresh grilled beef spring rolls. Yummy!

Top it all off with a sweet bean, tapioca dessert.

Salt baked chicken

A typical Chinese deli, just like back home.

Not a typical street scene but it is Hong Kong after all.

Hong Kong is a great place to end our four months on the road. All the great food you could possibly want in one gigantic Chinatown with a western setting.

Leaving Hanoi

2010-03-06T16:54:00.000-08:00

Hanoi, like many crowded urban areas in Southeast Asia, is not pedestrian friendly. There are seldom sidewalks and a mass of traffic on the streets. Pedestrians rarely have the right of way and share the roads with lots of noisy traffic.

Go ahead, tell me you've had some of these before.

Aha, passionfruit. One we did recognize.

Real street food.

This "hole in the wall" in the old town area of Hanoi is said to have the best "bun" in the city.

It's probably the closest thing to "street food" you can get without actually sitting on the street.

Bun is the speciality here and everyone venturing in will get served it. I'm not sure if it's the best we've ever had but the atmosphere will certainly add points to the ranking.

By far the best vegetarian food we had was at a new little restaurant in the Tay Ho area called Phat Truong Tho, or Amitayus Vegetarian Restaurant as listed on the business cards.

You can get all your favorite meat dishes without any meat at all. Spareribs and sweet onions (above) look just like regular spareribs only it's all vegetarian. The bones are made from bamboo shoots.

Our last day in Vietnam. A quick breakfast at DaLuva and we're whisked-off to the airport.

Fish Story

2010-03-03T00:18:00.000-08:00

You can't really separate traveling and fishing, can you?
Well, I guess if you don't enjoying fishing you can.

Alan and I do enjoy fishing when we're home, although it's been a couple of years since we hit the waters.

So here we are in Hanoi, strolling around the great West Lake in the Tay Ho district, where we're staying, and there they were, the fishermen. They weren't hard to miss. Yes, they were IN the water. Some in waders but others just perched precariously on some unknown objects.

Pulling in the catch of the day.
There didn't seem to be any problem catching fish on the lake. Several people had nets full of fish.

The lake itself is pretty polluted. I'm not sure if I would knowingly eat fish from it. Litter can be found lining the banks of the lake and dead fish can be seen along with it. That's a pretty good indicator that all is not well.

Fishing reels. Nothing more than an object to loop your line around.
The fishermen we encountered at the lake didn't even use any bait. Just a nasty looking hook with several barbs on it, a bamboo pole, and some line. I guess that shows that fishing does require some skill.
It can't just be luck. Like the time, a few years ago, that Alan caught the fish of his life (below).

Yes, you know what they say: Once a fisherman...

Halong Bay Cruise

2010-02-27T01:19:00.000-08:00

When you visit Hanoi, the most popular side trip is to Halong Bay.

First designated a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 1994, it has been reclassified to include it's geological and geomorphological value in 2000.

Halong Bay encompasses an area of roughly 1553 square kilometers with some 2000 limestone karsts and islands of various sizes and shapes jetting high above the surface of the water. An incredible sight to say the least.

When we first visited Hanoi in 1998, we didn't make the trip to Halong Bay. When we returned home, we heard plenty of "you didn't go to Halong Bay?". Not sure if it's the same as "you went to Paris and didn't go to the Eiffel Tower?" but we didn't actually decide on Halong until we were persuaded by our hosts here in Hanoi.

It's all pretty structured. A few hundred cars, minivans, and buses shuttle back and forth between Hanoi and Halong Bay daily. There are roughly 25 tour operators and somewhere around 150 to 250 small cruise boats, depending on who you talk to, cruising in the bay.

We stopped at one of the many fishing villages on the Bay. Fishing, shrimping, oyster farming are still a big part of life for the people here, but I suspect shuttleing tourists around the bay can be just a lucretive.

Pollution is a pretty big problem in the bay as evidenced by the amount of garbage floating around.

Not sure where most of it comes from but at least in the small fishing village we visited the people shuttleing us around were constantly netting up debris from the water.

No, I'm not part of the crew. Stop asking me for a coffee refill.

But I get this frequently. In Thailand, we rented an apartment, and the very first day we were there someone approached me and told me that the light fixture in his apartment was not working and demanded that I fix it. When I gave him a puzzled look, he just threw up his arms and walked away. I guess he though I couldn't understand English.

Cooking class (above) and morning Tai Chi (below).

Kayaking is another popular activity in the bay.

She sells sea shells.

Fishing boats all lined-up.

We opted for 0ne of the higher end tours on the bay.

Bhaya Cruises

The staff on board were incredible. The food was so so.

We would recommend them though. They have six boats in their fleet. One for day cruising, Three Classics, and two high end Legends.

Sails Up!

Although the sails are mostly decorative, in a moderate breeze they actually do some good.

*When you go:

-You can generally book a cruise a day or two in advance out of Hanoi. All the tour operators have offices in the central tourist area, or Old Town of Hanoi. There are also numerous private tour operators throughout the city.

-The two day, one night cruise is the most popular way to see Halong Bay. A second night will cost you about 40% more. We opted for the Bhaya 2day/1night cruise ($159 promotional price) which included the three hour shuttle to and from Hanoi.

-Check the weather reports for a "good weather day". It can be cold, foggy, and gloomy even during the mild high tourist season.

-Pack light for the overnight stay. It could get chilly at night so bring a sweater or light jacket.

-If you want to kayak or swim (probably not recommended as the water is pretty murkey) bring appropiate clothing.

*Halong Bay time:

Han-noise

2010-02-22T20:36:00.000-08:00

We've been cold ever since we arrived here in Hanoi, although it's not really that cold.

After three months in Thailand, the last five weeks on the beach on Phuket, we arrived in the northern capital city to more weather shock than anything else.

It's been overcast since we arrived four days ago but the day time highs are beginning to reach into the mid-seventies. There's even a forecast for some mid-eighties by the middle of next week.

Hanoi has a vastly different feel than Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) in the south. At times it feels like a completely separate country.
One thing it does have in common with Saigon is the street noise. Motorbikes are the most noticable things on the streets here. Maybe not as much as in Saigon but still an overwelming presence. Cars and trucks are becoming increasingly afforadable so their numbers are adding to the traffic on the often narrow roads.
Horns from cars, trucks, and buses are used to alert motorbikes of their presence.

Street life is always interesting - mostly because it's so different from what we experience back home.

Above are people snacking on snails on the street.

The street markets are pretty much as they are throughout Southeast Asia.

Plenty of fresh vegetables, fish, and meat.

Fresh baked baguettes, along with delicious coffee, are two things the Vietnamese have mastered from their French colonial days.

Wine in jugs on display outside a local wine bar. Yes, those are starfish.

The historic Old Quarter is one of the top destinations in Hanoi.

The streets are lined with shops and historic old buildings. You can shop, stroll, or just relax on the street cafes enjoying a cup of coffee or tea.

A woman carrying around a portable Pho stand.

Motorbikes congesting the sidewalks. There are often parking attendants hired by the local merchants tending to the parking. Sidewalks are not really for walking here in Vietnam.

In the cities they're often used for parking motorbikes or for merchants setting up their tea or food stands.

We're staying in an apartment on the top floor of this building housing a trendy bar/restaurant called Daluva serving everyting from tapas to pho, and all kinds of interesting cocktails.

Daluva is located in the trendy, up and coming Tay Ho District on the West Lake. It's away from the hustle and bustle of the Hoan Kiem District and the Old Quarter but just a ten minute taxi ride away (about $3.00).

And here's the best thing about Daluva, aside from the wonderful staff and friendly guests. Breakfast of French Crepes with bananas and Passion Fruit sauce. Yummy!

Hanoi is celebrating it's 1000th year anniversary in 2010 and they expect up to two million foreign visitors and eight million domestic visitors this year. The city, with it's limited capacity, will be pushed to its limits. The official anniversary date is 10 October 2010.

Sounds on the street.

Crossing the street can be a bit tricky to a novice streetwalker here.

You could spend hours waiting for the traffic to stop, but it won't until late at night.

Do as the Vietnamese do and start inching your way across a busy road. You'll be surprised as the traffic parts, like the Red Sea, flowing smoothly in front or behind you. Whatever you do, don't make any unpredictable movements. Freeze if you have to but never lunge forward.

You pat my back...

* When you go:

-Dollars are welcome in most higher end establishments but the Vietnamese Dong cannot be refused by law. Exhange rates are currently in the 18,800 to one USD range. Change $100 USD and you'll be carrying around almost two million Dong. A cup of coffee will run you about 18,000 Dong on the street.

-ATM machines are available throughout the city.

-Exchange dollars at hotels or banks. Traveler's checques at banks only.

-Bring smaller US notes for small purchases.

-A taxi from the airport into town will cost around $16 USD including the tolls.

-Tipping is not required but becoming more common in the large cities of Hanoi and HCMC, and almost expected at high end restaurants.

Hanoi time:

Tet in Hanoi

2010-02-22T19:56:00.001-08:00

TET is being celebrated here in Hanoi. The Lunar New Year brings in the Year of the Tiger (not sure what's going to happen when there are no more Tigers).
We arrived here shortly after the New Year and the celebrations were well under way.

Potted Peach Blossoms adorn practically all the shops and businesses.

We made our way to the temples along with thousands of others.

TET NGUYEN DAN can be interpreted as "Feast of the First Morning" or "Dawning Period" of a Lunar New Year.

The Chinese Zodiac puts 2010 as the Year of the Tiger.

Tigers are well liked and have charming personalities. They often seek approval from family and peers but do not find worth in money or power. Tigers always land on their feet and are ready for their next actions, pursuing it with vigorous energy.

Tigers are also incorrigibly competitive and can rarely pass up a challenge. They're unpredictable but never underestimate their reactions. Known to to intelligent and alert, they're always ready to deal with their problems.

Tiger time in Hanoi:

Nai Harn Beach - Phuket

2010-02-22T00:24:00.000-08:00

Back on Nai Harn Beach on the southern tip of the island of Phuket.
We spent a little over five weeks here this year and I only missed one day at the beach. Alan spent every third day back at the apartment catching up on his writing projects.
Not much has changed since we were here a little less than a year ago. The beach itself is probably one of the nicest tourist beaches on the island. The water is crystal clear, especially on the eastern end of the beach, with plenty of fish for the snorkelers.
It's high, high season and the beach is near capacity a little past mid-day.
Mostly Europeans (especially Italians) and some Russians. Not many Americans.

A seven year old boy was dragged from the surf unconcious. We believe he survived.

Monks on the move.

Nai Harn beach and the area surrounding it is owned by the buddists. Building in the area has been restricted although more and more of the area is being developed.

Tatoos are the big thing here now. And not just on the body building bunch, who generally overdo it for attention or whatever, but even on young women.

The temple at Nai Harn. Totally re-done with the help of some tsunami money.

A man and his dog? Who says that dogs resemble their owners?

If you go to Phuket, consider Nai Harn Beach. If only to hang out at during the day. It's a fair drive from the hustle and bustle of Patong Beach (about 400THB ($12) each way for a taxi).

The water is cleaner on Nai Harn than any of the other tourist beaches on the island. You can swim and snorkel freely here as there are no jet skis, or other power boats in the water.

Monkstock in Chiang Mai

2009-12-21T02:51:00.000-08:00

A monk called Frank. It's his "habit" name (nickname). He tends to be frank about what he says. Three years as a novice he still misses singing a bit but is devoted to becomming a monk when he turns twenty.

Unlike Bangkok, English is not spoken much outside the tourist industry in Chiang Mai. There is however a rather popular Wat complex within the old city walls that houses a University where English is taught to novices. At Wat Chedi Luang, not only is English taught, but it's use is encouraged and promoted as a way to teach foriegners about life as a monk and Buddism. It's not unusal to have a young novice (someone studying to become a monk) approach you and strike up a conversation in English.

Thailand is over 80% Buddhist but nowhere in the country is Buddhism more evident than here in Chiang Mai.

Wat Phra Singh is the main Wat in the city of Chiang Mai and it's well worth a closer look when visiting the city.

Although Wat Phra Singh is not an unusual name for a temple, Wat means temple, Phra is used to refer to Buddha or a revered Monk, and Singh is a mythical lion-like creature, Chiang Mai's Wat Phra Singh is the most famous one in all of Thailand.

The temple contains some of the most beautiful examples of Lanna Art dating back to the Wat's orgin in 1345. A replica of the "lion style" Phra Singh Buddha sits in the Viharn Lai Kham (above left). The original Phra Sing Buddha is now housed in the Chiang Mai National Museum.

During the height of the Songkran Festival in April, the Buddha is mounted on a Royal Carriage and paraded through the streets for the people to pay homage in the traditional way.

We arrived in Chiang Mai on the last day of November and upon visiting Wat Phra Singh we noticed that a huge monument of some sort was being erected on the main square of the Wat complex. We knew it was a temporary structure based of the materials used.

As it turned out, it was a cremation vehicle for the former Provincial Head of Chiang Mai Monks who had passed away recently. It was commissioned to be built at the price of 500,000 baht ($15,000) and is to represent a "funeral playground".

After four days of construction it was finished and fully operational. It had the tail of a serpent, the body of a bird, and the head of an elephant that included blinking eyes, a rolling trunk, flapping ears, and a swivel head, all rising some 60 feet off the ground.

For the next five days, monks poured in from Wats all over the country.

Here, a contingent of monks and assorted Buddhists from the U.S. are viewed by a senior monk.

The head monk of Thailand read and taught scriptures for three consecutive nights.

He was referred to as the "President of all Monks in Thailand" by a couple of young novices who chose to enlighten us on the proceedings. Monks from several countries attended the nightly rituals, with interpreters on hand to explain what was going on.

Pictured here are two novices that actually spoke pretty good English. The one on the left will become a monk next year after six years studying as a novice. The one on the right is named Moe and has a passion for boxing of all things. He kept naming boxer after boxer asking if I was familiar with each and every one of them. I of course was not.

Boys as young as twelve are indoctrinated as novices but becoming a monk does not come easy. Years of studying and a realizations of one's path is necessary before a novice can become a monk at the age of twenty.

The on the night of December 20, after five full days of ceremonies, the entire structure was burned to the ground.

Shenzhen - eating out again

2009-12-13T19:57:00.000-08:00

Shenzhen is a sprawling city in the southern province of Guangdong, China lying just across the border north of Hong Kong.
It is one of the fastest growing cities in China with an estimated population of some 14 million residents. The average age is less than 30, and 20 percent of China's PH'Ds work there.

With it's close proximity to Hong Kong, Shenzhen is fast becoming the Shanghai of the south with it's glitzy skyline and business hub. Some 7,500 Hong Kong residents commute to work in Shenzhen daily.

Alan posing at a temple in "Fairyland Park".

Like many other cities in China, the "theme park" scenario is well in play in Shenzhen. It's a way to accomodate the growing population of Chinese tourists eager for things to see and do.

A Lamasery at the Cultural Center.

The Cultural Center in Shenzhen is a huge attraction for tourists. Here you can see and relive periods throughout Chinese history (many in miniature, or well scaled down).

Alan waving to the masses.

An evening show at the Cultural Center.

And of course there's eating. We spent two days in Shenzhen and it seemed we did more than our share of eating. I guess it's easier when you're traveling with a group because at any given time there's always someone thinking about eating something.

A typical "simple" meal. Lower left is bamboo stuffed with sticky rice.

Shenzhen is a pretty good eating place and the prices are a fraction of what they are in Hong Kong for a similar meal.

Roast Duck & BBQ Pork appetizer.

Stewed Pork.

Sai Fun with vegetables.

Roast Duck with pancakes.

Steamed Free Range Chicken. Yes, served with the head but missing the feet.

Boiled Grass Shrimp.

Steamed Fish.

Crab.

This is a dish I'd never seen before.

Minced vegetables and pine nuts that you stuff in little cones and eat.

Then of course, Fish Heads.

It's a bit of a joke for some but usually at a Chinese Banquet Style Dinner when a whole fish is served (steamed, fried, or some other way) there are some (usually women) that would drool over the fish head. Well maybe not drool.

Here we had a whole plate full and yes, they were pretty good, and meaty too.

Even Alan, not normally a fish head eating sorta guy, was giving it a go.

Shenzhen - Forget the translation, you know what it means.

2009-12-13T19:39:00.000-08:00

Literal translation? Maybe, but you know what it means. And what other kind of translation is there?

When was the last time you "gently slammed" something, while being careful of "collded?".

Here is a panel of switches and knobs mounted on the wall next to the toilet.

The one in the middle and right are pretty easy to figure out.

The switch on the left says "WAIT A MOMENT".

Wait a moment? Wait for who?, or what?.

We didn't try it out and, although still curious, we're not yet regretting it.

Tai Shan - Village life

2009-12-11T20:45:00.001-08:00

This village, actually a small town, is where my mother was born. She was last here when she was 15 years old, over 60 years ago.
We didn't know exactly which house it was, and she certainly didn't recognize it. Even the numbers on the doors didn't match what she remembered.

We were lucky to find it, and even luckier that there was someone home, since we were coming unannounced. We knew there was a caretaker living there and boy was she surprised when we showed-up.

When we finally found the place, we simply let ourselves in as though we owned the place (well, technically my mother did). We told them who we were and were allowed to look around.
It was very emotional for my mom.

In one of the rooms on the upper floor were pictures of my parents, my grandmother, and my brother Ed at 45 days old.

The shrine was located in one corner of the room with a couple of pictures of my grandfather.

________________________________

Village farming life is not easy, especially compared to living in the growing city of Tai Shan, or other cities further afield, where there are more opportunities for a better life.

The days of vigorous village farming communities built around the family structure are long gone but everyday farming does still exists here. Many people still do depend on it for their livelyhood and things run pretty much the same here as it has for as long as these villages have been here.

___________________________________

These are pictures of the home of my Uncle Paul and his brothers. One of the homes that currently has someone actually living in it. The woman currently living in it, a distant relative, was very eager to show us around.

Alan being shown around the house.

_________________________________

Rice harvest.

Usually two crops a year, sometimes three. The quality of the rice in three crop harvests is not as good and the additional work and manpower needed for three crops a year may not necessarily yield profitable results.

Some people with close ties to relatives overseas, or even living overseas themselves, make frequent visits back to their villages. Some have remodeled homes with updated appliances, and maybe even a western toilet.

The buildings in the villages are all pretty much the same. Two story, dark grey, brick buildings separated by narrow 4 ft. alleys.

A typical kitchen with a wood burning stove. Some now have propane buffet burners as well.

Gathering the rice. These village farmers sell whatever rice they harvest in the local markets in the nearby town. Some of it may be purchased by local rice merchants to be sold in larger parcels outside the area.

Drying vegetables. Usually used for soup.

If your family in the village was "rich", you had a summer house, still in the village but separated from the main block of buildings. This one (below) belonging to my sister's family, has long been abandoned and is now used as a storage barn.

The rice harvest.

Tai Shan - Chin Village

2009-12-11T06:36:00.000-08:00

It had rained overnight but by morning it was relatively dry (15 Nov 2009). We are traveling with my parents, both my sisters, my oldest brother, a niece, and a few other relatives and will meet up with a contingent of even more relatives from the San Francisco Bay Area in my Father's village.

We had all come for the dedication of a new building in the village. It was going to be a huge celebration with a thousand people in attendance.

We were ripe with anticipation because this one day was the focus of our entire 10-day trip together.

It had been twenty-three years since I accompanied my parents on their last visit to the Chin Village, their only other return to my dad's birthplace in over 60 years.

We arrived at 9 am and followed the procession over a small bridge into the village. Things were well under way by then but we had other business to tend to before joining the dedication ceremony.

We were met by relatives and quickly whisked-off to my father's houses in the village to pay our respects.

The entryway to my father's house.

The shrine in the main room of the house.

Every home has a shrine where all the ceremonial duties are performed. It represents the soul of the house and no home would be without one.

A chicken, roast pork, and rice wine was laid out as an offering and incense was lit and placed in the alter of the shrine.

My parents sitting on their wedding bed in the main bedroom. They last slept here over 60 years ago.

Firecrackers were set off after we paid our respect at the shrine in the house. We then made our way to the dedication of the new building.

The kitchen area.

A poem left on the wall by a previous occupant.

No one lives in the house now as there are more buildings in the village than people to occupy them.

Most empty homes, including my father's, have a caretaker who generally keeps the place clean and watches over the property.

This village, although a bit larger than many, is typical of most of the villages in this area of Southern China.

Tai Shan is the main city in this area of provincial Guangdong (Canton). It lies about 140 kilometers west/northwest of Hong Kong. The Chin Village sits just outside the small town of Chong Lou in the Tai Shan area.

Tai Shan contains twenty townships which are sub-divided into 503 residential communities containing 3655 natural villages. This is one of those villages.

The village buildings are always lumped-together surrounded by fields of rice and other crops.

Most of the tightly grouped single story brick buildings were built over 100 years ago. Some sill living there with close ties with their overseas relatives have remodeled homes.

Tai Shan - Chin Village - Lion Dancing

2009-12-11T05:51:00.001-08:00

Lion Dancers were brought in for the celebration. We followed the main procession into the village when we first arrived but missed the initial dancing with the big firecracker display because we were led directly to my father's house in the village to pay our respects (by sin).

These are pictures of the second procession for the main ceremony and dedication of the new building. Our group, along with other donars and dignitaries, sat patiently in the front two rows observing the lion dancers.

The Southern Lion Dance dates back to the Ch'in Dynasty about a thousand years ago.

Lions express joy and happiness and are usually performed by members of Kung Fu schools.

Lion Dances play an important role in the consecration of temples and other buildings, at planting and harvest times, the opening of businesses, and many other official celebrations.

The Dancing with firecrackers is meant to scare off evil spirits, and other dance moves summon good luck and fortune.

The movements are very specific and are initiated by either the person with the lion's head or the drummer in the accompanying band consisting of at least a drum, cymbal, and gong.

Lion Dance troups are usually paid through a ritual dance involving lettuce, or some other green vegetable, and sometimes a beverage. The green has come to symbolize money, or good fortune and red envelopes stuffed with money (lay see) are attached.

My father's name, along with the names of other donars, are all listed on the dedication plaque inside the new building. I'm not sure how much my parents donated on behalf of the family but our names were all engraved on the plaque.

Tai Shan - Chin Village People & The Big Meal

2009-12-11T04:32:00.000-08:00

Spent firecrackers outside the new building.

The view of the Chin Village from the roof of the new building. The village itself is about one square city block of brick buildings surrounded by mostly rice fields. The three tallest buildings are the two shown in this picture along with the newly dedicated one.

I was curious as to what the purpose of the new building was before the trip, and still a bit unsure of what it is. It appears mostly to be a big central meeting hall where villagers can have celebrations, similar the the one we were here for. The main room on the ground floor was the largest room with an adjoining room next to it where the shrine was. Staircases are located on both sides of the main room leading to two separate rooms on the second floor. One, I believe, is a school area. And the other is another meeting room, which I was told not everyone was allowed in. On the roof is a large open space, suitable for outdoor events, and the building's only bathroom (a small room in the corner with a single squat toilet).

Here I am with my brother Ed paying our respects at the main shrine in the new building before the ribbon cutting ceremony for the dedication of the new building. Three large roast pigs were brought in for the ceremony and celebration.

Outside, villagers waited for the speeches to end and the cutting of the ribbon.

Many of the men were in charge of running things and the women sat, or stood, mostly together watching.

My Mom and Dad, along with a long line of other ribbon cutters, and their "ribbon girls".

The principal donars, friends, and guests from the U.S. posing for a group picture in front of the new building after the ribbon cutting. Alan and I are on the far left.

As the ceremony was going on outside, in adjacent building, the food was being prepared for everyone in attendance. Many were from neighboring villages, all invited to celebrated the dedication of the new building.

Some of the food was prepared on site but most of it was brought in, catered by the best restaurant in the neighboring city.

Roast Goose (above) being chopped, and chickens (below) laid out ready for serving.

The main hall where most of the people were fed. We sat upstairs, in the smaller room with the donars and other dignitaries in attendance.

The overflow, mostly women, sat outside.

Alan, sharing the first course of soup with a relative and our bus driver. We all sat on sawhorse benches, eight to a table.

The meal itself was endless. Dish after dish was brought to the table and it was definitely more than we could eat. Soup, Shrimp, Chicken, Roast Pork, Goose, Duck, Stewed Pork, Lamb, Vegetables, it just kept coming. There was Chinese Rice Wine to wash down anything you were unsure of. It was all very good but we ended up having to leave after around 10 dishes were served. We had a quick stop to make to find my Mom's village before returning to the Chin Village later for dinner.

Tai Shan - Chin Village Good-Bye

2009-12-11T03:42:00.000-08:00

After a full day of festivities, including reunions, meeting relatives, lion dances, firecrackers, and what seemed like non-stop eating, we made our final good-byes, after yet another meal with our relatives and the village.

This is the ceremonial last dinner which was shared with some of our close relatives in the village. There were around 75 people, spread throughout three homes, sharing this last meal with us. The food was similar since it was catered by the same restaurant who did the big meal for a thousand earlier in the day.

My parents with my sister Bev on the bridge leading into the Chin Village.
This particular village is larger and perhaps more prosperous than many of it's neighboring villages.
The construction of the new building was paid for by relatives overseas, many in the San Francisco Bay Area, like my parents.

Farming is still the main thrust of these small villages in Tai Shan. However, it's hard to imagine that these small villages will still be around in 20 or 30 years. There are less than 150 people still living here, many of them elderly. Some workers are hired-in from neighboring villages to help with the crops. Many of the younger people in the village opt to move into the city of Tai Shan, or other cities further afield for better paying jobs, and a way for a better life in general.

The building with the red door is was my father's old school in the village. It's now vacant and boarded up.

At the end of the day, just before leaving the village, my father takes a last stroll with my sister Dina. It was a very emotional and nostalgic day for my father. It almost seemed as though he didn't want to leave.

My father was born in this village 84 years ago. He went to U.S. as a child and returned here to get a wife when he was around 20. After my parents were married, my mother came to live in this village. When she became pregnant at the age of 15, they moved to the U.S.
Since immigrating to the U.S. over 60 years ago, they've only made one visit back. I accompanied them on that particular trip in the summer 1986. That too was an emotional trip. The village itself has not changed much from 1986 although there are less people living there.
This will be my father's last trip back to the village where he was born.

Today there are an estimated 1.3 million people living overseas that can trace their ancestry back to Tai Shan, far outnumbering those who live there now.
As late as 1988, seventy percent of Chinese Americans could trace their roots to Tai Shan.

Alan and I are happy and honored to have made this trip to Tai Shan with my family. Although a return visit is not out of the question, the circumstances surrounding this particular trip will probably never be repeated.

Hong Kong - It's still there.

2009-12-04T20:21:00.000-08:00

Our last visit to Hong Kong was 1996. The Union Jack was still flying over the city but the countdown was well under way for China to reclaim the territory. Many of the wealthy and influential had fled the unknown future that was to cloak Hong Kong the following year (1997).
Today, Hong Kong is pretty much unchanged although a bit shinier, and perhaps glitzier.
Many who fled prior to 1997 have returned.

Hong Kong currently ranks as one of the top 10 most expensive destinations in the world. Staying at one of the upscale hotels will certainly make a dent in your wallet. However, there are very reasonable choices in the mid range price category.

The area to stay, if you want to be right in the thick of it, is Kowloon, or specifically the Tsim Sha Tsui area.

For about $110 USD a night, we chose the Butterfly On Prat. Hidden in a small alley, as many of the best secrets in Hong Kong usually are, is this small, unassuming property. We walked right past it on our first visit there and the doorman fetched us a few doors down the road to ask if we were looking for "the Butterfly".

Standard rooms are on the smallish side but very modern and nicely appointed. We didn't expect much of a view based on the location and size of the property (122 rooms), and we didn't get one. However, the best thing about this property is the staff. Everyone we encountered were helpful, courteous, and professional. Never mind that they put us in room 911.

Christmas is coming in Hong Kong.

Entrances to Buddhist Temples.

Wherever we go in Asia, we try to visit the local temples.
There are still temples scattered around Hong Kong but praying in them is more limited to "the few" and visiting tourists. Only on specific Buddhist holidays do the masses make their visits.

For a slightly more upscale property, try "The Mira". Located right smack on the bustling Nathan Rd., right across the street from Kowloon Park, is this ultra-modern chic property with it's 500 rooms. Prices start at $200 USD per night.

The only junks left in Hong Kong Harbour are the "billboard junks".

Preserved meats and sausages. Hanging on top and on the bottom right are preserved duck (lop-op).
This oily, slightly smoked and dried meat is a very useful ingredient for flavoring just about anything from vegetable to rice dishes.

The local meat markets are the same as they are all over Asia. Just tell them what you want and they'll whack off a piece for you.

I don't believe there are ANY parts of a pig that are not edible. Well, maybe for some people.

Hearts, livers, brains, kidneys, tongues; tell me you haven't had pork rinds before.

Repulse Bay.

Once a haven for pirates, Repulse Bay today is an upscale beach area located on the southern side of Hong Kong Island. Until the early 1960s building was restricted in the area but today, high rise housing complexes line the hills behind the beach.

At the eastern end of the beach is a temple with large prominent statues of Quan Yin and Tin Hau overlooking the sea.

Stanley Park.

The developed area of Stanley Park has recently been labeled a "tourist trap" by many, and maybe rightly so. Gone are the colorful local eateries and shops which once inhabited the area. All replaced by a small shopping complex with uninteresting stores and dull restaurants serving even duller food.

There is however a bit of shoreline and an historic old covered pier.

Believe it or not, there still is room for another high rise complex on the Wan Chai shoreline on Hong Kong Island.

It's Hong Kong. So there must be a dragon somewhere.

And yes, we ran into one in Kowloon Park.

Shopping is still one of the big reasons why people come to Hong Kong.

It's no longer a "cheap" place to shop, especially for big ticket items (cameras, electronics, watches) but still is a haven for inexpensive trinkets and souvenirs.

One such area is called "lady's street". I don't know why it was labeled that. Sure there are many items for ladies but no more than any other tourist market anywhere else in Asia. You'll find some interesting items at pretty good prices (be willing to bargain) as well as a multitude of things you would never consider buying back home. But who cares, you're on vacation.

Then there's the Jade Market. Located on Kansu and Battery Streets, it's about 400 small vendors selling everything from jade to mah-jong sets.

If you don't know anything about Jade, you'll probably pay too much for some worthless piece of stone. But there are some cheaper jade bargains here, if only for souvenirs or gifts for your friends who know as much about jade as you do.

If you do know a little about jade, you'll probably spend a couple of hours here.

Goldfish Street.

You've probably never seen anything like it.

Tropical fish are bagged-up every morning in plastic bags ready for sale.

Goldfish street is only a short block long but filled with more tropical fish vendors than probably anywhere else on earth.

Cruel you say? Maybe, but keep in mind that tropical fish are shipped in these little bags around the world every day. And shipped fish certainly stay in the bags a lot longer than just the business day.

Lemme out.

And finally the Bird Market.

Birds are prized possessions, not just for the Chinese but many cultures throughout Asia.

The primary Bird Market is on Yuen Po Street, in the Mong Kok area of the Kowloon Peninsula, where birds are not only sold but where many bird owners come to show off their birds (mostly elderly men). The original Bird Market in Hong Kong was located on Hong Lok Street but relocated here in 1997.

You can get anything and everything you need for keeping birds; cages, made from bamboo or teak,, live crickets by the sack full, fancy water vessels, freshly roasted sunflower seeds, and yes, the live bird of your choice. The price of many birds are determined by how well they can sing.

The view from Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island.

Victoria Peak is one of Hong Kong's favorite destinations for tourists, and not just because there's a Burger King there.

"The Peak" as it's often referred, sits on a bluff on Mt. Austin at the elevation of 1,810 feet overlooking Hong Kong harbour and Kowloon.

Trams run up and down the steep hillside bringing visitors to and from the observation area above.

It all began in 1888 when "sedan chairs" took, mostly non-Chinese, residents up and down the side of the hill.

Today, nearly seven million visitors visit it annually, making it one of Hong Kong's most popular sights. Two small shopping centers have been developed recently on the peak to accommodate the visitors.

The early evening view of Hong Kong Island from across the bay in Kowloon.

Hong Kong is a vibrant, exciting city and certainly worth a visit, even if you're not a shopper. The food is very good, and when you think about it, isn't any more expensive than eating out back home. Especially since there's no tipping here. The best bargains are still the small restaurants where you can get a bowl of "jook" (rice porridge) in the morning, or noodle soup, wontons, or roast goose well after midnight.

Even if you're not a shopper, stroll the market areas and take in the color and excitement that is Hong Kong.

*Hong Kong Tip: Purchase an Octopus Card and use it on Buses, the MTR, Ferries, Convenience Stores and for many other purchases. Just look for the Octopus Card logo. Every time you scan your card, it gives you a reading of the balance left on the card and you can top it off at many locations throughout the city. It's valid for up to three years after your last top-off date.

Hong Kong time:

You think your job is tough?

2009-09-24T15:53:00.000-07:00

You think you have a labor intensive job?

This was the view from our hotel window in Mandalay. Construction began each morning around 6 am and continued non-stop until the late afternoon.
Women carried mixed cement, in woks, on their heads, up ladders, to be poured into forms.
Your heart really went out to these hard workers.

There were plenty of men on the work site but the women did all the cement hauling.

It's a sight that's common in Africa as well with women going out early in the mornings to gather branches and other things to burn. It's all bundled-up and carried in a massive pile on their shoulders.

Mandalay

2009-09-24T14:19:00.001-07:00

Mandalay was founded in 1857 and is the second largest city in Burma. Forty percent of the monks in Burma reside in and around Mandalay. They are seen everywhere around the city from dawn until dusk.

The city of is named after Mandalay Hill which sit in the north eastern part of the city.

Mandalay most likely evolved from the words Mandala (circular plains), Mandare (auspicious land), or Mandara (from Hindu mythology meaning hill).

No visit is complete without a visit to the temple on top of Mandalay Hill.

Be warned that no footwear is permitted on temple grounds. If you approach the temple from the city base, or the main portal to the temple, it will involved a long climb, barefooted, to the temple above.

You can, however, take a shuttle truck up to the temple and walk down from there.

The one sight not to be missed in all of Mandalay is the Mah Muni Buddha.

It is believed that the Image is one of only five cast during the life of the Gautama Buddha and that the Buddha embraced it 7 times thereby bringing it to life. Devout Buddhists hold it to be alive and refer to it as the Maha Muni Sacred Living Image. The Buddha was originally brought from Rakhine State and is also referred to as the Great Rakhine Buddha.Revered as the holiest pagoda in Mandalay. The image in a sitting posture is 12 feet and 7 inches high. The early morning ritual of washing the Face of Buddha Image draws a large crowd of devotees everyday. It is considered to be the second most sacred Image, after the Shwedagon Pagoda, in all of Burma.

Tourists are encouraged by resident monks to pay tribute to the Buddha by applying gold leaf to the body of the Image. If you're not asked to make a small donation, please offer one.

The Buddha Image has taken on an irregular outline with about two inches of gold leaf applied to it over the years.

In a courtyard of the Maha Muni temple, are six Khmer bronze statues (three lions, a three-headed elephant and two warriors) that originally stood as guardians of Cambodia's Angkor Wat temple. The statues of the warriors are reputed to have miraculous healing qualities. Legends tell that rubbing a body part of either of the statues will cure an affliction in the corresponding part of your own body.

The Great Gong on the grounds of the Maha Muni temple.

In the center of the city is the Mandalay Palace, originnally built for and occupied by the Burmese Royal Family until the British took over the country in 1885. Some taxi drivers will refuse to take you there saying that you should stay away because it was rebuilt with forced labour. We chose not to visit.

A moat circles the entire one square kilometer grounds. Tourists enter through the West Gate.

When You Go:

* Before traveling to Burma, contact a travel agent who can arrange a transit letter for you. You will need this when applying for an entry visa into Myanmar. We used Myanmar Tourex. They can make hotel and internal air reservations for your trip, arrange airport transfers, as well as private tours. A paypal deposit is required after setting-up the trip and the balance is paid on arrival (USD cash).

* Stay away from government run hotels, travel agencies, and airlines. Support the local independent merchants. When shopping in the large tourist marketplaces, the government run merchants are clearly labeled as such.

* Don't miss the Maha Muni Buddha Image, Mandalay Hill, and the local markets in the Chinatown area.

Mandalay time:

So, should you go to Burma?

2009-09-20T13:30:00.001-07:00

Should you take a trip to Burma?

For the past few decades, the debate on visiting Burma (Myanmar) has waged on with many scholars saying that a regular tourist visit would be viewed as support for legitimizing the repressive military regime ruling the country.

On the other hand, there are those who believe that visiting Burma would only help the people there. In many instances, tourists are their only contact with the outside world.

In recent years, the shift has been "to go". And if you want to experience a diverse culture and fantastic, jaw-dropping sights, you must go.

For many years, we debated these very same points, and when we first visited Burma in 2006, we wondered why we had not gone sooner.

We entered Burma, as many western tourists do, from neighboring Thailand. As independent travelers, we had arranged our accomodations, aiport transfers, and internal flights with a local travel agent in Burma over the internet.

The Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda houses an enormous Reclining Buddha.

Street food in Rangoon (Yangon). As adventurous as we usually are, this is one place where we didn't sample the street food. Skewered animal organs? On the street? No thanks.

Alan with an apple vendor on the street in front of a bank.

You cannot exchange money at a bank in Burma. And never exchange money at the airport. In most instances, you can purchase just about anything using dollars, so bring plenty of small bills.

Dollars must be free of any markings and excessive wrinkles or tears. Money can be exchanged at most hotels at very unfavorable rates. For the best rates, go to the local markets.

When You Go:

* Change only as much money as you think you spend. It's virtually impossible to change it back into dollars, and is useless outside the country. You will however receive a better exchange rate with larger bills ($100s). In Rangoon (Yangon) your best bet is exchanging with merchants at the Bogyoke market.

* Crime against tourists is rare since the penalties can be severe. Pickpockets do exist so be aware in crowded areas.

Rangoon time: